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Full Version: One More Dpad On A Gp : The Nes Cross!
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nik166
okay, here we go for some WIP pimping, but better than words , let's go into the subject!

first you may wonder "is it easy? do i need material ?"
the answer is yes !
... to both, unfortunately...

needed:
-a dremel (yep, i have one since last week, now i have fun with it tongue.gif ) prefferably dremel 400 or any model that can go as low as 5000rpm, i haven't used any higher speed, i think 10000 would be quite much ...
-some patience and precision skills
-old game pads
-a transparent CD box


so is it possible without a dremel ?
sure, but it won't look that good tongue.gif
is it possible without patience and precision ?
forget it!

by the way i'll not tell you what to do, i'll tell what i did, feel free to adapt anything, it's not a howto, it's just my own experiment wink.gif

lettsa go!

first , of course, dismounting pads or etc, i personally tried nes, snes, and an old GBC i think nes or snes would be the wisest choice, nes having a thick cover like the GP2x, but the snes has some small cavities to maintain the rubber in place, good, but the cover is slimmer, and the cross is wider

anyway first think to do, practicing on some old cd box, take the pad's cover, put it on the plastic, and fill the cross with a "special for CD" pen, then cutout carefully

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nes here

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snes there ...

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that's quickly done , so the question is why clear plastic and not cardboard?
1/cardboard doesn't make you practice tongue.gif
2/plastic is more rigid and solid, for trying the pad's feeling etc
3/ you can figure that the NES's cross width is almost exactly as large as a thick cutout disc :

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PERFECT! biggrin.gif
but i use a thin one anyway for begining, then the big one to finish smile.gif


ok, let's check the SNES scale....
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i'm definitely sure it would fit!

... but i'll begin with the ness, i don't wanna mess with my faceplate biggrin.gif

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first to do: protecting!


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...never too cautionous ...

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then dismounting it all , personally it's not my first time, but you may find dismounting guides somewhere if needed i think biggrin.gif


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and GO!
done with a little sandpaper tube for dremel, if you don't have a dremel you can do it by hand with 80 to 180 density, it will only take much longer :-P
i suggest using it on a tube too, like a big battery or something, to begin the big job, to not attack the protective tape, then finish with the smaller paper on a flat surface, always making little circles wink.gif
until you begin to eat the paper, then for the finishing blow,





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thank you dremel discs, that's sans paper, really paper so it's soft, AND the diameter is great as tou see biggrin.gif

do i NEED a dremel for that ?
nope, you can also make a little tool for your drill or again by hand, use precise sandpaper, AT LEAST 320 ,

then you can polish it to make it shiny, but i don't bother with that yet biggrin.gif most of the surface will go away anyway wink.gif


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that's done , relief removed! smile.gif


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no need to protect anymore, time to admire smile.gif that may look complicated but it's really simple until now,
the next is trickier tongue.gif

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remember my old cutout ? now it will get useful wink.gif
first checking outside...


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...and inside, that can fit , yay :]

then cutout again, so first i marked what's to cut, using the same middle as the otiginal one, the cross will be exactly at the same place, not upper or lower it can fit that way, and it'll not look strange with the original circle, so once the clear plastic well positionned, and the inside filled with cdr pen, cutout time again!

first with a too small cross, cutting like # , the corners come by themselves afterwards, just moving them in and out, the gp2x circle acts as a cutout limit smile.gif

then, finishing and making the cross bigger with the thick cutout disc i shower earlier, stopping often to remove the plastic garbage and trying to insert the cross,

it has to be larger than the cross of course, i stopped once i could move the cross enough to draw a 1mm² square, like with the original controller smile.gif



the result is :

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... neat cool.gif


END OF PART ONE , see you soon for the interior modding! smile.gif
TelcoLou
* Eats popcorn *
TheGrandPubaa
Looks great so far. I wish I had the means to do it on my unit. Or the skill. wink.gif
Yono
Wow, thats awesome, nice job.
chunkyktr
*joins the show and reaches for a handful of telcolou's popcorn.....*

thats looking sweet and very well thought out.
looking forward to the next instalment..

possibility of a downloadable document for hard copy instructions please? smile.gif

nik166
well once finished, and if my GP is useable, i'll make a PDF guide if there's some demand wink.gif

but now, i have a joystick to unsolder ohmy.gif
iignotus
If this works out *really* well and still looks that good, I would definitely pay for you to do this to my gp2x biggrin.gif
PokeParadox
Likewise O_O

I would love to take one of my ugly US SNES pads and send it to you with my GP2X with some cash if you can mod the SNES Dpad onto it ... and it looks and works nice smile.gif
bacteria
Project coming along nicely! Nice Dremmel work!
lubidog
That is good stuff!
Mr. B
From the looks of things, I think the d-pad from the black DS Lite would be the best part you could have. I wonder if you can buy those anywhere.
xnopasaranx
Hey bacteria: You can kind of take credit for this too! It`s like your mod was improved on. Somebody said something about your pdf starting some sort of a dpad mod scene for the gp2x. We are definately getting there...
nik166
QUOTE(xnopasaranx @ Sep 5 2006, 10:18 PM) *
Somebody said something about your pdf starting some sort of a dpad mod scene for the gp2x.


guess who it was? biggrin.gif
i already had that plan in my mind wink.gif


but credits to bacteria for the joystick's pinouts ! they'll be useful to me soon wink.gif
xnopasaranx
hehehe sweet. I really like how it looks btw. I am considering to take the plunge and do this too... I just have to overcome my fear of defacing my precious gp2x...
bacteria
[quote name='nik166' post='447560' date='Sep 5 2006, 11:22 PM']
[quote name='xnopasaranx' post='447555' date='Sep 5 2006, 10:18 PM']Somebody said something about your pdf starting some sort of a dpad mod scene for the gp2x.
[/quote]

guess who it was? biggrin.gif
i already had that plan in my mind wink.gif


but credits to bacteria for the joystick's pinouts ! they'll be useful to me soon wink.gif
[/quote]
Excellent. I am pleased my work has been useful to others!

Looking forward to seeing how this project completes. Good work.

cool.gif--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Mr. B @ Sep 5 2006, 11:12 PM) *</div><div class='quotemain'><!--quotec-->
From the looks of things, I think the d-pad from the black DS Lite would be the best part you could have. I wonder if you can buy those anywhere.
[/quote]
I tried some companies, only one would supply; they wanted £30 per set of D-pads and rubber contacts; crazy! You can buy a second hald NES controller for about 99p if you can find them.

Issue also is making soldering joints on the PCB of the D-pad, to secure the wires properly, so they can be fed to the back of the joystick pins.

Your mod is great for someone with a good level of skill, good tools and unafraid to do open heart surgery on the GP2x. Fair play. My project is designed for the rest of us!! laugh.gif
Jarska333
Oh that looks like it was built like that...
Julius
Nice stuff, but I think DaveC's N-gageQD dpad looks even better wink.gif
nik166
i don't care , mine is more than enough tongue.gif

i don't trust nokia anyway ohmy.gif

by the way, the most bothersome thing is DONE!

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with a little solder iron and a small screwdriver, i don't have a de-solder pump or whatever that would have been much faster, i spent more than one hour in removing the stick biggrin.gif

also possible to cut it, but i prefer keeping things useable "just in case" biggrin.gif


so now, i can look for the dummy layer's perfect thickness , and it will be almost done ! :]
TheGrandPubaa
Looking very nice indeed. I definitely wouldn't mind sending my unit to you along with the parts and some cash if you were to provide a modding service. smile.gif
krosfyah
It looks really professional.. good job.
ASK
Gotta add in my kudos on this so far, very nice! Looking forward to reading about the finished result smile.gif
grahf
Looks good so far nik166. Have you figured out what your going to do for a pcb yet?
nik166
i'll try with a part of a nintendo's pcb first, since i don't have what i'd need to make one myself biggrin.gif
not great but it's all i have ready yet tongue.gif

anyway each part of the whole inside module (dummy-pcb-rubber-cross) can be exchanged by something else later , so if it doesn't work fine enough, never mind, it can be fixed smile.gif
nik166
today's progress:
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cutting the old nes PCB, and getting some old ide cable....
the nes PCP is sanded on the future solder points smile.gif

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that's gonna be the hard part, but i modchipped my ps2, i'm not scared! tongue.gif

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SUCCESS!

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BIG SUCCESS!
there's quite some space under the L button actually.....


PokeParadox
OMG ... seriously... I really want to do this mod... actually you know the soldering is not my problem, this part of your mod appears relatively easy for me... I'm more scared to cut the GP2X case. ha ha ha.

Anyway glad it is coming together for you smile.gif
nik166
it's alive!
ALIIIVE!


it works smile.gif i just have a little rubber-positioning issue, (the nes contact is 2 sided, not mixed like gp2x's ones or orher modern ones ... ) i'll try to position it with very small small dots of glue or something,

...and it may work in a reliable way in an hour or two :]

yay :]
nik166
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eheeee :]
Gruntfuggly
Funny - I can see a fair few people giving this a go...

... it looks excellent, by the way...
WyS
set up shop man.. looks like you got a few customers, me included..
ste_167
Will you be incorporating the centre-push as documented by Bacteria?
iignotus
How does it feel?
nik166
or course, i don't know where nor how but there will be one, or one button would be missing wink.gif

anyway now i'm ajusting things to get a good solid touch , the good new is it's possible to close the case, but the back is too tight, i'll have to remove half a millimeter on the little tube that holds the motherboard, i first thougt the wire would be as thick s the soft pad , no, it's more tongue.gif
Paradox
theres going to be a shortage of NES controllers soon... how clear / smooth is the cut around the pad itself? the pad also looks like its a tiny bit too big in comparison to the circle buttons.

how does it feel/work anyway? can you hit diagonals easy and everything ?
TheGrandPubaa
Once it's all closed up tight and everything, give a good fighting game a go. Something like Street Fighter or King of Fighters. If you can easily pull off the moves in those games, i'd say it's a total success.

Looks great, though.
nik166
unfortunately i'm not into fighting games biggrin.gif

anyway i have a little problem to fix on my GP (blank screen and green led switching off after half a secone, already happened, probably a bad contact somewhere, i'll look for it... )

then i can finish it properly smile.gif
Loubear
I can't see the images. All it says is ipb image.
nik166
ipb?

my server can be down sometimes, but normally you can see everything anytime , if you don't see, wait a bit, if you still don't see, maybe your provider has a problem with my server or something...

i tried to ctrl+f5: thet work for me now , so check again ...
DBH
*comes into the thread with ice cream*

This thread is getting exciting!
Khayman
Im getting a Dremmel right now... or after we all know that it works!!! wink.gif
This is great!
yalborap
Looks VERY nice. If possible, I'd suggest taking a small pushbutton and with a little bit of modification making a small 'center-push' button below the volume buttons, but that's just me. Either way, if you get this all working completely, I would definitely be willing to send my GP2X, some parts and a bit of money to get the modification done.
nik166
don't rush in taking commands, it's just a 0.1 version yet,

i just played some sonic, it works, yes wink.gif and fine ; yes wink.gif
better than the original stick, even with my little rubber mod? yes ! biggrin.gif

but it's not perfect yet, i'm exploring ways to make it better , for now the touch is not totally homogenous, mostly because of the little smd resistors under the additional PCB,and also because of the rubber's position on the PCB ; it works, but gotta push a little bit harder than i want especially on the DOWN way, mostly because of the 2-cells graphite contact on the PCB

i have some experiments to make to find what's best to put between the gp's PCB and the additional one, and try to replace the rubber if i can remove it once glued tongue.gif

and by the way if someone can make PCBs, a custom one would be the best possible thing, i can work on a typon if someone is interested? biggrin.gif


(still have to fix my "blank screen on battery" issue too dry.gif )
bacteria
QUOTE(nik166 @ Sep 6 2006, 10:47 PM) *

i have some experiments to make to find what's best to put between the gp's PCB and the additional one

Sticky foam pads (like I used?) - double sided, good adhesion, good insulator...
grahf
Nik, I used two strips of 3M double sided tape to both raise and attach my gamecube pcb. It raises it enough to clear the smd resistors. Its been fine for months now, its strong stuff.
nik166
i'm not sure i wanna raise too much over the resistors biggrin.gif (i dug a bit into the PCB at the resistor's place to clear the way wink.gif )

maybe one strip would be fine?


i'll find anyway smile.gif
grahf
Well i didnt stack them, i just used two strips side by side. Its raised just barely over the resistors. If you cut out your pcb, they do sell double sided adhesive tape thats similar in strength and paper thin.
Jarska333
So, how difficult would this be, on the soldering side of things? I've installed an afterburner on my GBA, so that's about the level of skill I posses... Nevermind the shoddy job actually installing the light dinghy, or that the potentiometer-wheel was counterclockwisely installed... tongue.gif But it works...

Would this be much more difficult?
PokeParadox
I'd reckon this would be easier than installing an afterburner...
But on the other hand there is more for you to do.

I installed an Afterburner kit on my GBA... unfortunately I didn't have all the right tools, so a lot of things were improvised:
e.g. The potentiometer dial was heated on the metal with a soldering iron as I pushed it throug the GBA case (it melted the plastic on the GBA and sank through) That worked quite well actually... maybe better than drilling holes as was suggested.

bacteria
I put in an AfterBurner on my original GBA too a while back. Worked fine, but everything was very pixilated, and the light shone out of the sides of the GBA screen, which was annoying. Still, it was a mod, and mods are not as good as having the real thing in the first place. I got the GBA SP then, so much better!
Jarska333
QUOTE(PokeParadox @ Sep 8 2006, 02:35 PM) *

I'd reckon this would be easier than installing an afterburner...
But on the other hand there is more for you to do.

I installed an Afterburner kit on my GBA... unfortunately I didn't have all the right tools, so a lot of things were improvised:
e.g. The potentiometer dial was heated on the metal with a soldering iron as I pushed it throug the GBA case (it melted the plastic on the GBA and sank through) That worked quite well actually... maybe better than drilling holes as was suggested.


I chickened out and got a ready-made front cover with potentiometer... wink.gif


(When will those be available for 2X? And I wonder, if one could, instead of dremeling, melt the cross-shape onto the cover... Scary thought. ph34r.gif )
PokeParadox
I wouldn't like to try it with a big shape like a cross...
It worked with the potentiometer thinggy because it had pointy pins. It was east to sink them through the plastic and solder the wires on the inside of the case.
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