so are there some one on this forum, there might have a solution about what i can do, maybe put on some wires other places on the board and then connect them to the LTSK?
Hope someone here can help me.
Edit
oh and my gp2x is a F100
Full Version: I Bricked My Gp2x Damit
I today when i was trying to replace the LTSK chip, then i acentdently riped off some of the printpath, lanes (or whatever you call them, my english is not my primary language).
so are there some one on this forum, there might have a solution about what i can do, maybe put on some wires other places on the board and then connect them to the LTSK?
Hope someone here can help me.
Edit
oh and my gp2x is a F100
so are there some one on this forum, there might have a solution about what i can do, maybe put on some wires other places on the board and then connect them to the LTSK?
Hope someone here can help me.
Edit
oh and my gp2x is a F100
My, that's some nice mess you created there! But there's still hope, as long as you don't make the mess bigger.
First, solder the replacement LTSK in place. Take good notice of the traces that are damaged (you already did) before placing the chip. Then use some thin magnet wire to recreate the connections that have been lost. Use magnet wire with solderable isolation, because scratching off the isolation of a .1 mm wire is not funny. Anyone who ever installed a UP modchip in a PSP knows exactly what I mean. Make sure you use a soldering iron with a fine tip that allows you to heat one pin at a time. And if it's adjustable, don't put the temperature too high. A too high temperature usually is the cause of the traces coming loose and getting pulled off the board.
First, solder the replacement LTSK in place. Take good notice of the traces that are damaged (you already did) before placing the chip. Then use some thin magnet wire to recreate the connections that have been lost. Use magnet wire with solderable isolation, because scratching off the isolation of a .1 mm wire is not funny. Anyone who ever installed a UP modchip in a PSP knows exactly what I mean. Make sure you use a soldering iron with a fine tip that allows you to heat one pin at a time. And if it's adjustable, don't put the temperature too high. A too high temperature usually is the cause of the traces coming loose and getting pulled off the board.
That was my solution too, but i have problems with finding out where the traces are going
i found differet places on the board where i can connect number 1,4,7 and 9.
But i cant see where number 2,3,5,6,8 and 10 are going.
so if there was some one that could tell me where i could connect the last numbers, then i can repair my gp2x again
.
i found differet places on the board where i can connect number 1,4,7 and 9.
But i cant see where number 2,3,5,6,8 and 10 are going.
so if there was some one that could tell me where i could connect the last numbers, then i can repair my gp2x again
.
According to Linear's sample application, pin 6 is going nowhere although it has a monitoring function (Pgood).
Judging from your pics (good macro pics btw!) the connection of the LTSK in the F100 pretty closely follows the sample application's diagram. Since the application is similar (3V3 stable from 2 cells), I guess the resistors/capacitors/coils even have identical or very similar values!
Pin 2 is either GND or +Vin (battery), pin 3 and 10 are +Vin, pin 5 should be GND and pin 8 goes to a point between two resistors. One of the resistors connects to pin 7 and +Vout while the other one is connected to GND.
With the sample application from the datasheet and a multimeter, you must be able to fork out the right points for all connections.
Of course, the best deal would be a second F100 so you can test all connections with a multimeter. I have a F200 which is totally different, but maybe someone with an F100 can help you with directions.
Judging from your pics (good macro pics btw!) the connection of the LTSK in the F100 pretty closely follows the sample application's diagram. Since the application is similar (3V3 stable from 2 cells), I guess the resistors/capacitors/coils even have identical or very similar values!
Pin 2 is either GND or +Vin (battery), pin 3 and 10 are +Vin, pin 5 should be GND and pin 8 goes to a point between two resistors. One of the resistors connects to pin 7 and +Vout while the other one is connected to GND.
With the sample application from the datasheet and a multimeter, you must be able to fork out the right points for all connections.
Of course, the best deal would be a second F100 so you can test all connections with a multimeter. I have a F200 which is totally different, but maybe someone with an F100 can help you with directions.
cool You really helped me alot and think i can reapir my GP2X now thanks to you 
about the pictures thanks, i have a Cannon G7, it's pretty good with macro
I will take som pictures of it as soon im finish so you can see what i did, and tell you if it worked.
Here are the picture where im planing to put the wires(bluespots).
about the pictures thanks, i have a Cannon G7, it's pretty good with macro
I will take som pictures of it as soon im finish so you can see what i did, and tell you if it worked.
Here are the picture where im planing to put the wires(bluespots).
FINALLY yaeh, i managed to repair my gp2x, it dosent look good........But it works 
... ignore
Eeeekkk!!! I see a spider crawling on your motherboard!
LOL! Congrats on the repair of your 2x. Given the damage, I think this is the best you could make out of it. Just use loads of hot glue to immobilize it or you might find that during gameplay one of the wires breaks from the chip and you're back at start again.
Cheers on the soldering, the pins of the LTSK are really small!
LOL! Congrats on the repair of your 2x. Given the damage, I think this is the best you could make out of it. Just use loads of hot glue to immobilize it or you might find that during gameplay one of the wires breaks from the chip and you're back at start again.
Cheers on the soldering, the pins of the LTSK are really small!
I gonna have nightmares after seeing "spider solution"...
Hopefully my GP2X survived PSU with reversed polarity
Hopefully my GP2X survived PSU with reversed polarity
Yeah, you're gonna want to be REALLY careful that those wires don't short out to anything else. From the look of it, it's very cramped and so they could touch anything. A ton of hot glue would be in order, I agree.
And I know if I see a cheap GP2X on eBay to steer clear unless I know it's not this one!
And I know if I see a cheap GP2X on eBay to steer clear unless I know it's not this one!
He he i know i looks kind of scary. I would never sell it .
Meanwhile i did a small mod on the battery section
Why havent i done this before, it's soo nice.
About the spider solution, i really dont know how i could have done it better because of the damage i did, it works, and with some hot glue it will be ok, i think. But if something goes wrong... then i have an extra chip.
i know i looks kind of scary. I would never sell it .Meanwhile i did a small mod on the battery section
Why havent i done this before, it's soo nice.
About the spider solution, i really dont know how i could have done it better because of the damage i did, it works, and with some hot glue it will be ok, i think. But if something goes wrong... then i have an extra chip.
Good job on the fix. Looks difficult.
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